Throughout Indonesia – or at least in Java and Bali – rice fields dominated the landscape. In Java they ranged from large, open fields to small patches that might have been mistaken for someone’s lawn had there been less water.
The landscape in Java tends to be a bit flatter, so the fields look normal to Western eyes. Except for the scattered palm trees, they could be corn fields waiting to sprout. Sometimes the rice would alternate sections with other crops.
Bali tended to be more hilly. As a result, we encountered more terracing there. Also, the fields tended to be less likely to be tucked between houses.
In both places, larger fields were often owned or at least farmed by different people. Sections might be marked off by a line of palm trees, by a shack, or by shrines. Most shrines would involved a bamboo pole, but some were stone work, like the one above that looks like a pump.
Some of the terracing was subtle. In other places it was quite distinctive.
As our bus traveled through the countryside, we happened to pass a ripe field that was being harvested. The tour guides got the driver to pull over. We all tumbled out, across the busy highway, and went to talk to the people working in the field.
The couple working the field didn’t own the land. There were neighbors.
Land owners don’t typically harvest. Sometimes they plant, but not harvest. They use some migrant workers, and some neighbors. Some owners have a lot of lands. Owner gets 50% of the harvest and the workers get 50%.
They share crop like that for coffee and other crops too. Rice can be grown 3 times per year, but is generally only done 2 times then alternate with another crop to keep the field fertile. Peanut is a good alternative crop. Also during the dry season it’s better to not plant rice.
The Hindu are extremely status conscious. The caste system is closely linked to jobs. Even a landowner who never works the soil is considered to be in a lower caste. Caste influences who should marry or otherwise associate with others. Fifty years ago, Sudra – the lower caste – were considered dirty, poor, barely above animals. The higher cast is referred to in a different way to show respect. Intermarriage strongly discouraged.
The woman harvesting was five months pregnant at the time. Even now there are disadvantages to being from a lower caste.
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